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By Tara Weingarten
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In the first Michelin Guide covering Las Vegas restaurants, the only three-star establishment is Joel Robuchon's eponymous eatery at the MGM Grand, which reviewers called "perfection on a plate." It's currently one of 58 restaurants worldwide with a three-star Michelin rating (and this week, when the Tokyo guide comes out, Robuchon's restaurant there may become No. 59). But how did the celebrated French chef end up in Las Vegas, the capital of cheap buffets? NEWSWEEK'S Tara Weingarten spoke with Robuchon about his new digs.
So why Vegas, baby?
You almost couldn't do this restaurant anywhere else. This is where the money is. Gamal Aziz, the general manager of the MGM Grand, promised me carte blanche to make a place that would draw the most discerning diners in the world.
But are you really attracting serious diners in Sin City?
Absolutely. Anyone who visits here can see that the best chefs in the world are behind the ranges. Vegas has the greatest collection of restaurants in the world. And dinner, including wine, at Jo?l Robuchon, costs about $420 per person.
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You closed your restaurant in Paris in part because you were tired of being a slave to the Michelin Guide. Now it seems you're happy to be recognized again.
Yes, I'm energized again. Of course, the easy part is getting the three stars; the hard part is keeping them.
I hear you are a freak when it comes to presentation.
Well, we serve just 50 diners per night, so we have the time to put effort into each and every meal. We use 30 identically sized lemons in our lemon tart because every slice has to look like the next one.
How do the chefs in your American restaurants compare to those overseas?
You might be surprised, but the American line chefs are the best—better than many of them in Japan and France. Once you show them how to do something, they copy it perfectly. They're very serious, dedicated and passionate. Truly professional.
Maybe it's because they're sick of McDonald's.
Everyone should be.
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