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Newsweek Editors

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For something that's supposed to be "without distinctive character," vodka sure has gotten pricey. That's especially true for two new products, Stolichnaya elit and Jean-Marc XO, which have broken the $50 barrier. What does this stuff taste like? We put the new booze up against old-school Smirnoff and upscale favorite Grey Goose.

Stolichnaya elit
$60
Origin: Russia
Name game: 'Stolichnaya' means 'of the capital' in Russian; 'elit' means... nothing.
Selling point: A filtration process that simulates the one used by the tsars.
The verdict: It has an inviting smooth taste, with a hint of vanilla and a touch of grain. Would be nice for half the price.

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Grey Goose
$30
Origin: France
Name game: The guy who created the stuff had the rights to the name, which he once used for wines.
Selling point: It won a taste-off in 1998. Last year Jean-Marc took the prize.
The verdict: Creamsicle lite, with a teensy burn at the end. A little overpriced.

Jean-Marc XO
$50
Origin: France
Name game: The 'XO' adds a not-so-subtle hint of cognac terminology.
Selling point: Distilled nine times in pot stills normally used to make... cognac.
The verdict: A supersleek taste with plum and cinnamon accents. Worth every penny.

Smirnoff
$13
Origin: United States
Name game: The name's Russian, but it's made in all-American places, like Plainfield, Ill.
Selling point: Made in the U.S.A. but with all the finesse of a purveyor to the tsar.
The verdict: Slightly sweet, with a twist of pepper. How can something this cheap taste so good?

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