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By Dana Thomas
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Responding to the gloom of war and recession, designers have unveiled a fall season of chic and optimistic clothes that should appeal across the board. Miniskirts; fur-trimmed coats and jackets, and fuzzy, warm sweaters, all in cozy autumnal tones, are the key looks for the season. Denim--fashion's equivalent to comfort food--has gotten dressed up in lace and chiffon, and comes in smart, sexy shapes. Tailoring is back, particularly in suits for women, and prints are loud and bright in patterns that could lift anyone out of the doldrums. "Last year fashion designers were trying to be trend right for a select group of people," says Tom Julian, trend analyst for Fallon Worldwide. "This year it's across-the-board fashion for everyone--very approachable clothes. Quality versus gimmick."
Mini and mod: The miniskirt, which made a comeback last spring, is still here and--with the return of opaque stockings and to-the-knee or over-the-knee boots--it's the hippest look for fall. The newest twist to the mini is a pleated schoolgirl kilt. Some of the best are Jean Paul Gaultier's "Braveheart" mini-kilts in Scottish plaids, and Burberry's in wool and trimmed with leather, paired with fluorescent cashmere sweaters and strappy heels. "It's a young and fun look with a modern edge," says Julian.
Flashback: Multipocketed cargo pants have given way to utility pants that have loads of hardware like zippers, D-rings on the belts and snaps. For women who want a simpler, casual silhouette, Neiman Marcus's fashion director, Joan Kaner, suggests very slim pants tucked into boots, paired with a big cowl-neck sweater drooped over the shoulder a la "Flashdance."
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The blues: Designer denim--once considered an oxymoron--is here to stay. Trendy London fashion label Ghost has done a collection of fanciful, romantic denim tops trimmed with satin or ruched for a more feminine effect. Fred Segal in Los Angeles carries jackets and jeans made of the rare Japanese denim, a lighter, finer finished fabric that gives the clothing a more high-fashion appearance.
Business class: Ladies suits, after being pushed to the back of the closet for more than a decade, have re-emerged as the wardrobe centerpiece, and they are selling like mad. There are various interpretations, like Donna Karan's pretty 1950s-style fitted silhouette; Chanel's boxy, skinny-sleeved tweeds, and Oscar de la Renta's 1980s power suits with long pencil skirts, but all are smart and chic. "We have been through a period of bad taste," says Kaner, "and I'm happy to say that the elegant look is now in fashion. A little sweater or blouse with a skirt isn't enough. It's about a suit, finished off with gloves, sometimes up to just above the elbow. Not since I was a young woman have I seen gloves completing an outfit. They are very important for pulling the outfit together."
Bundling up: Warm coats have blessedly returned, too. Some of the best include Prada's brown and burgundy wool box coats, cinched above the waist with a man's belt and trimmed with mink or fox. Another favorite look this season is the double-breasted coat with 1960s-style big buttons. Fur is everywhere: on cuffs, collars and hems, or making up the entire coat. Look for rabbit, shearling and pony skin with leopard or ocelot print. With warm looks like these, you won't miss your flip-flops for long.
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